Perfect pastry for the tropics

By , January 23, 2010

Perfect pastry for the tropics © Clare Richards 2009 - 2010

Pastry can easily be a very ordinary thing. Too hard, too soft, too stodgy, too thick when cooked; the dough too sticky and wet when mixed, or too liable to melt on you when rolled out. Add to that the very different cooking conditions of tropical climates, with long periods of the year with consistent heat and humidity, and it becomes even more difficult.

So I’ve been trialling and researching, and have come up with a recipe that is dead easy to prepare, works consistently, works on a hot or humid day, and produces a pastry that can be rolled thin, that melts in your mouth, and yet holds firm when filled and when cut.

It’s so good that you’ll have to wait until my cookbook Tropical Cuisine: Cooking in Clare’s Kitchen comes out mid 2010 to get the recipe. For now, here’s a photo of a durian tart I made with the perfect pastry for the tropics.

© Clare Richards 2009 – 2010

Mum’s visit, and the recipe for Crystals

By , January 9, 2010
Crystals mixed drink © Clare Richards 2009

Crystals mixed drink © Clare Richards 2009

We are on the last night of mum’s visit, which has been two weeks of joy.  Sharing cooking, preparation, food, as well as many a swim and a wander.  Tonight we had a very simple meal of breadfruit chips, rump steak cooked on the BBQ and served with homemade BBQ sauce, and freshly peeled pommelo.  During dinner we indulged in a Davidson Plum rose from Sue Pyke’s bush fruit wine products at Sunset Ridge, and merrily consumed most of the bottle.

Dinner was preceded by one of my mixed drink recipe tests, and if I may say so, I think this is one of the best I’ve done so far.  The finger limes were from Sue Pyke’s farm; the kaffir lime leaves that composed the syrup were from my bush and that of my friend Norma; the vodka is newly released by Mt Uncle Distillery; and the lime liqueur is from Wild Mountain Cellars (23 Eacham Rd Yungaburra, ph. 07 4095 3000, email: enquiries@wildmountain.com.au).  Try this recipe if you have access to all of these ingredients, and if you don’t, belt off to your local native plant or independent nursery and buy yourself a kaffir lime and a finger lime tree, because this recipe is worth the nurturing of their green selves.  Crystals is pure, cool, effervescent summer in a glass:

Crystals

4 – 5 chunks ice

30ml Wild Mountain Rolling Thunder (lime liqueur)

15ml Anjea vodka by Mt Uncle Distillery

1 tsp Kaffir lime syrup (see following recipe)

1 tsp pink/red fingerlime bubbles

soda water to top up

Place ice into glass, add Rolling Thunder lime liqueur, Anjea vodka and Kaffir lime syrup, and stir to combine. Add fingerlime bubbles.  Top up with soda water, gently stir again, and serve. Best served in an old fashioned shallow and wide champagne glass.

kaffir lime syrup

10 kaffir lime leaves, torn along their edges

500g sugar

500ml water

sterile 1 litre jar

Place the sugar and water into a saucepan and heat until the sugar is dissolved.  Add kaffir lime leaves and continue to cook at a moderate simmer for 1 – 2 minutes or until you start to smell the fragrance of the leaves, regularly dunking the leaves under the liquid as they simmer.  Turn off heat, leave syrup to cool, then remove kaffir lime leaves into a jar, pour syrup over, seal lid tightly and store in fridge.  This syrup will improve over the coming days and weeks.

© Clare Richards 2009

Zen and the art of making scones

By , December 29, 2009
Scones © Clare Richards 2009

Scones © Clare Richards 2009

I have always been an average scone maker, and it has bugged me, as they are such a simple recipe.  I recently came across a brilliant set of instructions for successful scone making in an old book, and then launched on a full-scale research bonanza to see if I could uncover all the do’s and don’ts for successful scones.

Today I threw all my research together into a swift sequence of scone making, and the above scones were the result.  Straight from the oven, they were light with that paper-thin scone crust holding together the warm insides.  Don’t make scones if you are in ponderous or questioning frame of mind, because they require quickness, decisiveness and lightness from every part of your being.

Imagine wings on your feet as you flit from bench to oven, feel your hands to be as light and deft as feathers – that’s the zen part of the knack of scones – they need lightness of technique, so best be light in your whole being.

Here below are my discoveries regarding technique, and the recipe I’ve used follows:

TECHNIQUE

Preparation prior to mixing dough

Before turning on your oven, set the top shelf at the point 1/3 down from the top of the oven then make sure your oven is preheated and has fully reached the 220 oC required before putting your scones in the oven.

Don’t start mixing your milk/cream into the flour until your oven has reached 220 oC and you have the tray covered in baking paper ready for your scones.

Have extra flour ready next to the work surface on which you will press out your dough, and throw out a generous amount over an area about 25cm by 25cm.

Making your scones

Sift the flour (2 cups worth if you use the recipe below), whether you are adding baking powder to plain flour or using ready-made self-raising flour.  Leave it in the pile it falls to in the bowl (ie. don’t tap the bowl, stir it, or otherwise mess with it as you’ll lose the lightness gained by sifting).  If you are doing cheese scones, add the mustard and paprika powders to the flour prior to sifting.  Once the flour is sifted, sprinkle over the salt.

Gently push a crater into the pile of flour then add the milk/cream mixture in one go to the flour. (You will note that at the end of the ingredients list there is allowance for more milk, but this is only if needed so don’t add this in the first go.)  Immediately fold the liquid through the flour with light strokes, gathering the flour in from the sides of the bowl to the wetter dough in the middle.

Scone dough should come together well in a mass but still have enough moistness that it sticks slightly to the sides of the mixing bowl, and the dough should feel quite soft to touch.  If the dough seems too heavy and dry, add some extra milk, but only 1 tablespoon at a time as the dough can go from OK to wet very quickly.

Lightness of movement and touch is important.  Some instructions suggest mixing with a knife, but I find that too narrow so I’ve settled for a medium-sized spatula which works well.

If you are making cheese scones, once the dough is mixed gently spread it out slightly in the bowl, sprinkle the grated cheese over the surface, then lift one side of the dough over and across the other (as when you fold a pancake) and lightly press the edges together. Take care to be gentle scraping the dough out onto the floured surface so you don’t break open your cheese parcel.

Only mix until the dough is just incorporated.  It will still look a bit lumpy, there may be some wetter edges, but by the time you’ve scraped it out of the bowl and out onto a heavily floured surface, dusted it liberally in flour, lightly rolled the mass over once or twice, then lightly and gently pressed it out into a rough rectangle, it will be OK.

Do not squash your scone dough flat, it should be at least 3cm thick.

Cut your dough with a sharp knife and clean strokes, as any dragging or twisting will wrench the dough and inhibit rising on that side.  Quickly lift them with a light touch and drop them onto your baking paper-covered tray, allowing almost as much room between each scone as the size of the scones.

Bake undisturbed for 10 minutes then check them, and if needed (10 minutes is ample in my oven) give them up to another 5 minutes. They should be just turning pale gold on top.

While your scones are baking, melt a little butter in a pan.  When they come out of the oven, lightly brush a little butter on the top and bottom of each scone.  It removes the dustiness of any remaining flour and helps them to stay moist.

That’s the gist of it, so onto the ingredients, and make use of the method outlined above with the ingredients below:

INGREDIENTS

Plain Scones

(I use spelt flour instead of wheat flour, so either will be fine for this recipe.)

2 cups SR flour, OR 2 cups plain flour plus 4 teaspoons (which equals 1 Australian tablespoon) baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

125ml thickened cream

125ml full cream milk

up to 60ml additional milk if dough comes together dry and needs a little more moistness, added in maximum of 1 tablespoon amounts

about 1 tablespoon (1/2 cm slice) butter, melted, for brushing on cooked scones

extra flour for dusting your work surface

Preparation of ingredients

Sift the SR flour into the mixing bowl.  If using plain flour, thoroughly mix it with the baking powder first in a separate bowl, also adding the spices if making cheese scones, then sift into the mixing bowl.

Add your 125 ml of cream to the 125ml of full cream milk and stir until incorporated.  Keep aside a separate small jug with 60ml of additional milk in case it is needed.

From that point, follow the technique outlined above.

Cheese Scones

As above, except you increase the salt to 1/2 teaspoon, include 1/4 teaspoon of mustard powder and 1/4 teaspoon paprika with the flour when sifting, and grate 1/2 cup of mature cheddar cheese to add to the dough when it is mixed and just before lifting out onto floured bench.

That’s it!  If there are any other average scone makers out there, I hope these notes help you to lift your game to new, airy heights.

Eating Christmas

By , December 26, 2009

Moreton Bay bugs and lobster, then this © Clare Richards 2009

It is a quiet, still, warm Boxing Day morning.  The fridge is a lot emptier than yesterday with only some ham, a little turkey, 1/2 a tropical rocklobster and a succulent slice of local wild barramundi in there awaiting further munching.  I’ll probably play with making a champagne jelly with some of the leftover booze.  Other leftovers of BBQ’ed squid, prawns, barra and tropical sago pudding went home with family.

Mum is with me for Christmas, and today and tomorrow we bake for a High Tea photo shoot of some biscuits, cakes and desserts.  But before that we’ll be having a swim and a leisurely breakfast prior to launching back into work mode.

After the bake-off I’ll list a few recipes here, but for today I’m just here to say hello, and hope that your Christmas and New Year is unfolding as a relaxed and lovely time.

Lime golden syrup dumplings

By , December 11, 2009

Lime golden syrup dumplings image © Catseye Productions 2009

This is a development of a childhood favourite, golden syrup dumplings.  My sister Ness used to make a version that ramped up the lemon content as we all loved the balance of tart and sweet flavours.  This is my current version, using the limes that we get all year up here in the north.  It has a very distinct lime flavour thanks to the generous juice, and grated and zested lime rind:

Lime Golden Syrup Dumplings

2 cups self-raising flour

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon powder

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg powder

grated rind of 3 – 4 limes

80g butter

milk

lime zest strips from 1 lime

1 cup lime juice (about 8 limes)

3 cups water

1/3 cup golden syrup

1/2 cup castor sugar

Choose a wide based casserole or baking dish that that has a lid or can be covered with foil and can take about 10 dumplings sitting snugly in one layer.

Add cinnamon, nutmeg and grated lime zest to the flour and thoroughly stir through.  Rub butter into flour.  Gradually add enough milk until the mix forms a moderately stiff dough then shape into balls of about 5cm diameter.

Heat water, golden syrup, sugar, grated rind and lime juice until mix comes to the boil.  Pour some of this liquid into casserole or baking pan, place in dumplings, then pour the rest of the liquid over them.  Cover and cook in a 170 C fan forced (180 C conventional) oven for 20 minutes, remove lid or foil and baste dumpling tops by dunking them gently under the syrup, then cook for another 20 minutes or until dumpling tops are golden brown.  Serve with cream or sour cream.

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